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Common Problems
Automatic shut off / tape end sensors
Video recorders have end-of-tape detectors to
make sure the machine is automatically switched off when the end of the
tape is reached. Problems with this detection system occur frequently,
causing the machine to refuse to play the tape or to stop playing for
no apparent reason. When this happens, it is therefore advisable to check
if the video tape is damaged or if the end-of-tape detection mechanism
is faulty.
open reel tape
cassette
cartridgesystemen
Open reel (reel to reel) systems
With open reel tape there are two common
systems for end-of-tape detection:
1. The tape passes between a small lamp or infrared light and a photo
cell. As soon as the end of the tape is reached, the photo cell receives
a light pulse that switches off the motor drives. When the tape is spooled
back the same happens at the beginning of the tape.
2. The tape moves along a thin vertical guide. The guide moves horizontally
against a micro switch and presses the switch to the on position while
the tape is running, so that the motor drives are turned on. When the
tape reaches the end and slips from the spool, the guide is released and
removes pressure from the micro switch, switching it off so the motor
drives stop. When spooling back the same happens at the beginning of the
tape.
Cassette system
Within the plastic cover of the cassette the tape is wound onto one of
the two spools. On each end of the tape a transparent leader is fixed
to the spools. The tape moves between a lamp or infrared light and a photocell,
which detects when the transparent leader is reached, causing the motor
drives to switch off.
Note: With the U-Matic and Akai VK cassette
systems the supply spool is on the right side of the cassette and the
tape runs from the right to the take-up spool on the left. With most other
systems (VHS, Betamax, MII, Betacam etc) the supply spool is the left
one and the take-up spool is on the right.
Note: On some recorders a switch can be
used to instruct the machine to stop and wind back the tape at a particular
point or to replay in a loop. Make sure that in playback this switch is
off (‘memory off’) to prevent the tape stopping unexpectedly.
Cartridge system
Cartridges differ from cassettes in that only a supply spool is present
in the plastic cover: the take-up spool is part of the machine. At the
beginning of the tape there is a piece of sturdy transparent leader. When
the cartridge is inserted into the machine the leader winds from the cartridge
and is guided through the recorder to the take-up spool.
The cartridge system has the advantage that the tape must always be rewound
completely before it can be removed from the machine. This prevents tape
damage by being taken out when loaded in the machine.
As with the other systems, end-of-tape detection depends on a lamp or
infrared light and a photo cell.
Note: The recorder may also have a timer
to program it to instruct the machine to stop at a specific moment and
wind back the tape at a particular point or to replay in a loop.
On playback make sure the clock is set to maximum (turned completely to
the right) to avoid the tape stopping and starts rewind unexpectedly
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To
reduce problems with playing and (re)winding
At the end of the programme, let the tape continue to run for at least
a minute, then
stop and wind back to the original spool.
If you prefer to let the tape run out till the end, make sure that before
storing the tape in its box the spool is labelled ‘tail out’.
Bear in mind that you have to check the labels after every periodical
rewinding of the tapes (every six months or every year). In all cases
when tape is moved from the original spool to another, the data on the
label of the original spool should be copied to the new one.
To reduce static and/or sticking caused by playback or copying, always
wind a tape or cassette forward to the end of the tape and then rewind
to the beginning.
With open reel tapes always take care the tape is wounded evenly and flat.
Never remove a tape from the machine if it has not been (re)wound completely,
as a half run tape is more prone to damage.
1- and 2-inch tape will not be discussed here any further. If you to
have 1- or 2-inch. professional formats they should only be processed
by professionals. It is recommended that you consult a professional video
company, an expert in video preservation or a broadcast company as they
know how to deal with these materials.
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No
tape transport
Tape transport problems with U-matic cassettes
Transparent areas
Error message on display
Sticky tape
Transparent areas
A ‘hole’ in the binder layer and/or backcoating
Many devices have end-of-tape detectors that cause the machine to switch
off when a transparent leader at the end (or beginning) of the tape is
reached. When a tape is damaged, for instance because it got stuck in
the machine, this may result in small transparent areas on the tape where
the back coating or the magnetic layer is scratched. If that piece of
tape comes across the end-of-tape detectors, it may (incorrectly) be taken
for the transparent end-leader, and consequently the machine will stop
in the middle of the tape.

A ‘hole’ in the binder layer and/or
backcoating
If you suspect tape damage may be causing such problems, remove the cassette
from the machine with the tape at the place where it was stopped. Open
the tape cover of the cassette by pushing the slider in the groove next
to the tape cover and place a felt-tip pen between the open tape cover
and the cassette house, so that it stays open.

Open the tape cover, place
a felt-tip pen in between the cover and the cassette
Use lintfree cotton gloves and put a finger under the tape to pull it
out a little bit. You should be able to see quite easily where the tape
is damaged. Tape that is crinkled can be straightened to some extent by
pulling it along an aluminium strip.
Note:
make sure you pull the back of the tape along the aluminium strip, not
the side with the magnetic layer.
crinkled tape and an aluminium strip
If there is a ‘hole’ in the magnetic layer or the back coating,
that causes the machine to stop, you can use a thick, black felt-tip pen
to darken the damaged area at the back of the tape, never
on the side of the magnetic layer. Leave to dry and repeat if necessary.
When the tape is completely dry, wind it back into the cassette by turning
one of the spools from below and close the tape cover.
If the tape is seriously damaged, it may be necessary to remove the damaged
stretch of tape. Cutting out a piece of tape, however, will cause the
image to jump when it is played back (see repairing video tape).
Error message on display
(How to manually take out a cassette)
Most U-matic cassette recorders have a display for timing and error information.
When a cassette is in the machine and stops unexpectedly there will be
an error code in the display. Look in the manual for an explanation of
the error code or try the following procedure:
If you need to remove the cassette while the machine is blocked, switch
off the power supply and open the cover of the machine. If the tape is
still correctly threaded around the video drum or not threaded at all,
switch on the power while you press the EJECT button repeatedly until
the threading mechanism is turned on. In most cases the tape will unthread
completely, and the cassette will come out.
If this does not work, or if the tape is in a loop, you will need to remove
the cassette manually. Keep the power switched off and use lintfree cotton
gloves to remove the tape very carefully from the transport mechanism.
Put a sheet of A4 paper over the threading mechanism and place the loops
of tape on this sheet.
To the side of the cassette loader you will see the little loading motor.
Gently turn the gear until the cassette loader rises up. When the cassette
has come up completely, remove it carefully from the machine together
with the looped tape. Make sure the cassettes tape cover is kept open-
if necessary block it with a felt-tip pen. When the cassette is out of
the machine wind up the loose tape by turning one of the spools from below.
Note: it is essential to keep the tape
cover of the cassette open: it will damage the tape if it closes while
you are still removing the cassette from the machine. When the cassette
has been safely removed, you can let the tape cover shut. If necessary,
use a pencil to push down the slider in the groove next to the tape cover.
In the same way you can open the tape cover if you need to repair the
tape. Place a felt-tip pen between the tape cover and the cassette to
block it (see also Repairing tape).
Sticky tape
There may be different reasons why magnetic tape starts to stick in the
machine during tape transport. It may be a matter of static electricity
that causes the tape to stick to the guides or the head drum, but a chemical
reaction of the back coating is another possible explanation. Spooling
the tape to the very end and back again to the beginning will reduce electric
charges considerably and may solve the problem.
If the cause is from chemical deterioration of the back coating layer,
the tape will have to be passed a few times through a tape cleaning machine.
If this does not help, a professional in video preservation should be
consulted (http://www.sony-europe.com/restoration). There are more ways
to reduce tapes sticking, even in difficult cases, but these measures
should be left to the specialist.
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Condition
of tape
Uneven winding
Mould
Damage
Uneven winding
A tape may show uneven winding, with wraps not lined up properly that
stick out from the edge of the tape. Irregularities of the tape winding
are often an indication of improper handling or storage, or a problem
with the machine on which the tape was last played. Winding the tape to
the end and rewinding it again on a properly adjusted machine may reduce
the problem. Irregular tape winding causes the tape to run less smoothly
and increases the risk of damage.
Mould
Tapes that have been stored under sub optimal conditions can show signs
of mould or fungi. White stains on the tape are an indication of this.
Clean the tape a couple of times in a professional tape cleaning machine
from RTI (http://rtico.com/products1.html), or consult a video preservation
specialist.
Damage
A tape may be crumpled or damaged when it gets stuck in a machine. Tape
that is wrinkled can be straightened to some extent by pulling it (with
a little force) along an aluminium strip.
Note: make sure you pull the back of the
tape along the aluminium strip, not the magnetic layer. If the tape is
seriously damaged, it may be necessary to remove
the damaged piece, so that the tape can still be played. When a piece
of tape is cut out, however, the image will jump when it is played back
as parts of image lines are cut off.
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Repairing
video tape (not necessarily broken but seriously damaged or crumpled)
When a video tape is seriously damaged, crinkled or broken, consider
(after reading the instructions below) if you can repair it yourself.
It is not too difficult to repair a video tape by cutting out a damaged
piece. If you have any experience with tape splicing then cut out the
damaged tape and make a neat splice. Take care to attach the adhesive
tape only to the back of the tape, leaving no space between the two tape
ends. Use only special polyester splicing tape such as that used with
film editing.
If you do not have any experience before you try to repairing a valuable
tape, please first practise on a disposable piece of tape or visit a video
restoring company.
Before splicing you need to prepare some items on a clean surface (for
example a glass plate)
- thin polyester adhesive tape (for example adhesive tape used for film
editing)
- scissors (preferably anti-magnetic)
- lintfree cotton or linen gloves
- something to weigh down the tape to make sure it does not move (for
example a ruler)
preparations video tape repair
Place a white sheet of paper with a horizontal line under the glass
plate to help line up the tape.
Reel to reel tape repair
Cut the tape with the (anti-magnetic) scissors in the middle of the damaged
part. Place the two ends over each other where the damaged area has ended.
Cut both ends simultaneously on a slant. Both ends will then have an identical
diagonal ending.
Polyester tape does not tear so use the scissors to cut a small piece
of tape (from 15mm wide tape) about 6cm long.
Stick this piece of adhesive at the back of the video tape so that half
of the width of the adhesive tape (7.5 mm) is attached to one of the tape
ends. Place that piece of video tape with the back down on the glass plate
in line with the line on the paper. Then take the other piece of video
tape, keep it in line, above the adhesive tape and fasten it carefully
to the rest of the 7.5mm adhesive tape.
There should be no space between the two ends of the video tape that
are stuck on the adhesive. Rub carefully with the glove on the magnetic
side and then cut off the bits of adhesive that stick out on the sides
of the video tape.
Make sure no fragments of adhesive tape are left. You may cut the sides
of the tape in a subtle wave form, going inwards to the tape, so that
at the splice the tape becomes narrower by 1mm. at the most. Rewind the
video tape completely and, if possible, clean the tape in a cleaning machine.
U-matic cassette tape repairing
Open the tape cover on the cassette as shown in the photograph. Place
a felt-tip pen in between the cover and the cassette so that it cannot
close or fasten the cover of the cassette with a piece of adhesive tape.
Free a loop of tape carefully from the cassette by pulling at both sides.
Cut and paste the tape as described above, and
rewind the tape by turning the spool from below. If possible clean the
tape in a video tape cleaning machine.

Open the tape cover, place
a felt-tip pen in between the cover and the cassette
U-matic cassette crinkled
tape

pasting the tape
end result
Note: With VHS cassettes, you can release
the tape spools by pushing a pencil in the hole at the bottom of the cassette,
between the two spools. Keep it there while pulling a loop out of the
cassette. Cut and paste the tape as described above, and rewind the tape
by turning the spool from below (while turning the spool you will hear
a rattling sound).
Note: Cassette tape is always wound with
the magnetic layer to the outside. Be careful not to touch the magnetic
layer or make sure the adhesive tape does not stick to the magnetic layer
side of the tape or it will be seriously damaged.
Also open reel tapes are wound with the emulsion layer (magnetic layer)
to the inside except 1 inch B-format (BCN) which has the magnetic layer
outside. The inventors of the 1 inch B-format (BCN) system chose this
because for a quick recognition of the kind of video system used.
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Audio
recording on video tape
U-matic PCM
ADAT S-VHS digital
U-matic and S-VHS tapes are also used for recording digital sound. Thus,
before you put a cassette in to a video machine, check the written information
on the box and cassette to be sure the cassette is used for video recording.
U-matic PCM
A PCM (Pulse Code Modulator) audio converter is used to convert two analogue
sound channels into a digital signal that is recorded on tape via the
BNC-video input and the video heads. On an audio channel a TimeCode is
generated to enable editing. With a PCM reader the sound can be reproduced
(via the BCN video output).
Audio recordings for CD were edited by using a U-matic video editing
set in this way in the early days of the CD music industry. Finally the
edited PCM signal was burned to a glass master and was used to multiply
CDs.
If a PCM cassette is accidentally played in a video machine you will see
many horizontal black and white blocs with vertical lines on the screen.
ADAT S-VHS digital
Specially prepared S-VHS tape cassettes are used by the Alesis ADAT 8-track
digital audio recording. These cassettes have a maximum recording time
of 63 minutes. If they are accidentally played on a VHS recorder, the
screen shows snowy horizontal stripes and the sound is reproduced as a
quaking whistle.
Note: Always check the label on a cassette
to verify what is on the tape, to make sure you are using the right equipment
for the particular tape. Bear in mind you may be dealing with an audio
recording.
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Errors
on videotapes
This
13 minute film (153 MB) has been prepared by the Phonogrammarchiv in Vienna
and shows errors on video tape that they have regularly encountered in
their work on video preservation and transfer. The errors can result from
the original recording (analogue or digital) or deterioration of tape.
It is important to distinguish between errors made in the original recording
(that are part of the original document) and errors that are related to
the condition of the tape or the machine, which in some cases can be remedied
is important. For instance, it saves you spending time trying to solve
a ‘playback problem’ that is in fact an error in the recording.
start the video (wmv format)
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